Explore Cartier watches renowned for their timeless design, refined craftsmanship, and rich heritage. Discover iconic collections including the Santos, Tank, and more.
Authentic Cartier watches, professionally inspected and ready to ship. At ECI Jewelers, our inventory draws from across the Cartier catalog — Santos, Tank, Panthère, Ballon Bleu, Pasha, Baignoire, and other current and discontinued references — in steel, two-tone, gold, and diamond configurations depending on availability.
Every watch comes with its original Cartier box. Original papers are included when a watch is listed as a complete set. We offer free insured shipping, financing, trade-ins, watch sourcing, and in-person service at our NYC Diamond District showroom.
About Cartier
Cartier occupies a unique position in luxury watchmaking. Most watch brands are defined by their movements, complications, or sport credentials. Cartier is defined by design — by the distinctive shapes, proportions, and decorative language that have made its watches as recognizable as any jewelry the Maison produces.
That identity was established early. The Santos, created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, is widely considered one of the first purpose-built wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917 and inspired by the aerial view of a military tank, became the definitive rectangular watch and set a template for dress watches that endures today. The Panthère brought a supple jewelry bracelet into the watch world. The Ballon Bleu, introduced in 2007, gave Cartier a rounded, modern silhouette that quickly became one of the brand's most popular references.
What connects all of these watches is a commitment to form as a primary value — to the idea that a watch can be a design object and a piece of jewelry as much as a timekeeping instrument.
Collections
Santos de Cartier
The Santos is Cartier's most versatile collection — square case, exposed screws, integrated bracelet, Roman numeral dial — and the one that sits most comfortably across sport and dress contexts. Modern Santos references include Cartier's interchangeable bracelet and strap system, allowing the wearer to move between metal bracelet and leather or rubber strap without tools.
The Santos is available in medium and large sizes, in stainless steel, two-tone, yellow gold, and with diamond bezel options. The Santos-Dumont is a slimmer, dressier variant with a manual-wind movement and a more refined case profile.
The Santos is the right choice for buyers who want a Cartier watch with enough structure for the office and enough presence for evening wear.
Tank
The Tank is one of the most copied watch designs in history, which is the clearest measure of its influence. Its rectangular case, Roman numerals, chemin de fer minute track, and blue sword-shaped hands have remained essentially unchanged across more than a century of production — a testament to the integrity of the original design.
The Tank family encompasses several distinct interpretations:
Tank Must — The current entry point into the Tank lineup, available in steel with a range of dial colors. Key references include WSTA0041 (large steel), WSTA0055 (small steel), and color dial variants WSTA0072 (black), WSTA0060 (green), and WSTA0061 (blue).
Tank Louis Cartier — The most historically grounded Tank, closest to the original 1917 design, produced in yellow or rose gold. References include WGTA0011 (large yellow gold), WGTA0010 (small yellow gold), and WGTA0021 (large rose gold).
Tank Française — A wider, more architectural Tank variant with a distinctive bracelet design. Key references include W51008Q3 (small steel), W51002Q3 (medium steel), W51011Q3 (two-tone), and WSTA0065 (large steel).
Tank Américaine — A curved, elongated Tank with a more sinuous case shape. References include WSTA0017 (large steel), WSTA0016 (small steel), and W2609156 (medium steel).
Tank Solo — A streamlined modern Tank in steel. References include W5200014 (large), W5200028 (XL automatic).
Tank Cintrée, Tank Anglaise, Tank MC — Discontinued and collectible variants found primarily on the pre-owned market.
The Tank is the right choice for buyers who want a dress watch with historical weight and an unmistakable silhouette.
Panthère de Cartier
The Panthère is the most jewelry-like watch in the Cartier lineup. Its defining feature is the bracelet — a flexible, multi-row linked construction that moves with the wrist and sits flush against the skin in a way no rigid bracelet can replicate. The case is square, the dial is clean, and the overall effect is closer to fine jewelry than to a sport or tool watch.
The Panthère is available in small, medium, and large sizes across stainless steel, two-tone, yellow gold, rose gold, and diamond-set configurations. Classic Panthère references from earlier production periods are also found on the pre-owned market alongside current references.
The Panthère is the right choice for buyers who want a women's Cartier watch that functions as an extension of fine jewelry.
Ballon Bleu de Cartier
The Ballon Bleu, introduced in 2007, gave Cartier a rounded, contemporary silhouette distinct from the geometric vocabulary of the Santos and Tank. Its defining feature is the crown, set into a curved protrusion on the case side that softens the profile and protects the winding mechanism. The result is a watch that feels modern, comfortable, and unmistakably Cartier.
The Ballon Bleu runs from 28 mm to 42 mm, making it one of the few Cartier collections equally at home on women's and men's wrists. It is available in steel, two-tone, yellow gold, and diamond-set configurations.
Key references: W69010Z4 (28 mm steel), WSBB0067 / WSBB0044 (33 mm steel), W69012Z4 (36 mm steel), WSBB0048 (40 mm steel), W69016Z4 (42 mm steel), W2BB0032 (33 mm two-tone), W2BB0033 (36 mm two-tone), WE902073 (33 mm diamond bezel), WGBB0009 (36 mm yellow gold).
The Ballon Bleu is the right choice for buyers who want a Cartier watch with a softer, more rounded character.
Pasha de Cartier
The Pasha is the boldest, most expressive watch in the Cartier lineup. Its round case, distinctive crown cap, and strong proportions give it a personality that reads differently from the refined geometry of the Tank or the jewelry delicacy of the Panthère. The original Pasha was created in the 1940s; the current generation was relaunched in 2020.
Current Pasha references include WSPA0012 (41 mm steel), WSPA0009 (35 mm steel), and WSPA0013 (41 mm chronograph). Discontinued references including the Pasha Seatimer, Pasha C, Pasha Grille, and earlier Pasha Chronograph models are found on the pre-owned market.
The Pasha is the right choice for buyers who want a Cartier with more wrist presence and a more assertive design.
Baignoire
The Baignoire — French for "bathtub" — takes its name from its oval case shape. It is among Cartier's most refined and feminine designs, produced primarily in yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold with diamond-set options. The Baignoire is a jewelry watch in the fullest sense, and it is often sought by collectors who appreciate Cartier's high-jewelry watchmaking heritage.
Key references include WGBA0007 (small yellow gold), WGBA0017 and WGBA0020 (bangle configurations in yellow and rose gold), and diamond-set references WJBA0017, WB520002, and WB520004.
Materials and Movements
Cartier works in stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and two-tone steel and gold combinations. Diamond-set bezels, diamond dials, and fully gem-set references span the range from Santos to Baignoire. Select sport references — including certain Santos and Pasha models — use ADLC-coated steel for a matte, hardened finish.
Movement type varies by reference. Many Tank and Panthère models use quartz movements, prioritizing slim case profiles and low-maintenance ownership. Santos, Ballon Bleu, and Pasha references are commonly available with automatic movements. The Santos-Dumont and certain Tank Louis Cartier references use manual-wind calibers that fit within their slim, dress-oriented cases. Higher complications — chronographs, perpetual calendars, tourbillons — appear across Cartier's high-watchmaking and limited-edition production.
Sizes
Cartier covers an unusually wide size range, and the non-circular case shapes mean that case dimensions translate to wrist presence differently than in round watches. A Tank Must Large wears narrower than a 40 mm round watch despite its listed dimensions. A Panthère Medium reads larger on the wrist than its case size suggests because of the bracelet's visual width.
As a rough guide: small and mini references (22–28 mm equivalent) suit narrow wrists or very subtle styling; medium references (30–36 mm equivalent) work across most women's and smaller men's wrists; large and extra-large references (38–42 mm equivalent) suit standard to larger men's wrists or buyers who prefer a stronger presence.
Pricing
Pre-owned Cartier prices vary significantly based on collection, reference, material, size, movement type, condition, and whether the watch comes with its original box and papers.
Approximate pre-owned ranges:
Tank references: $2,500–$15,000+
Santos references: $4,000–$25,000+
Panthère references: $3,500–$35,000+
Ballon Bleu references: $3,500–$30,000+
Pasha references: $3,000–$15,000+
Baignoire references: $7,000–$40,000+
Gold and diamond references: pricing varies significantly
Rare, vintage, and limited references: pricing varies widely
Live inventory and pricing change as watches sell and new pieces arrive.
Buying Guide
Santos vs. Tank
The Santos is sportier, more structural, and more wearable across casual contexts. The Tank is purer as a dress watch — narrower, more refined, and more closely associated with formal and business wear. The Santos works better as an everyday watch; the Tank is the stronger choice for buyers whose primary use case is dressier.
Panthère vs. Ballon Bleu
The Panthère is a jewelry watch first — its value is in the bracelet and the overall effect as an accessory. The Ballon Bleu is a more conventional watch that happens to have an elegant case shape. Buyers who want something that integrates with fine jewelry will prefer the Panthère; buyers who want elegance with more watch-forward character will prefer the Ballon Bleu.
Quartz vs. Automatic
Cartier quartz watches are thinner, lower-maintenance, and often less expensive than their automatic equivalents. Automatic Cartier watches are preferred by collectors who value mechanical watchmaking and movement finishing. Neither is wrong — the right choice depends on how the watch will be worn and what the buyer values.
Is Cartier a good first luxury watch?
Yes. Cartier's design language is timeless rather than trend-driven, which means a well-chosen reference won't feel dated in five or ten years. The brand's identity bridges watchmaking and jewelry, which makes Cartier watches easy to pair across contexts. Pre-owned pricing makes several key references accessible well below new retail.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Cartier best known for in watchmaking? The Santos, Tank, Panthère, and Ballon Bleu are Cartier's most recognized collections. The brand is known for distinctive case shapes, Roman numeral dials, blue sword-shaped hands, and a design philosophy that connects watchmaking to fine jewelry.
Are Cartier watches quartz or automatic? Both. Many Tank and Panthère references use quartz movements. Santos, Ballon Bleu, and Pasha references are commonly available with automatic movements. Reference-level verification is always recommended.
Do Cartier watches hold their value? Cartier watches generally retain value better than most fashion-adjacent luxury brands, driven by strong brand recognition and consistent design appeal. Gold and diamond references, complete sets, and discontinued models in good condition tend to perform best on the secondary market.
What is the difference between Tank Must and Tank Louis Cartier? The Tank Must is the current steel entry into the Tank lineup, available with quartz or automatic movements. The Tank Louis Cartier is produced in gold, more closely follows the original 1917 design, and uses a manual-wind movement. It is the more historically oriented and typically more expensive of the two.
What size Santos should I buy? The medium Santos (approximately 35 mm) works well on wrists up to about 17 cm. The large (approximately 39 mm) suits most men's and larger women's wrists. When in doubt, comparing the lug-to-lug length against your wrist circumference is more useful than the case diameter alone.
Do your Cartier watches come with the original box? Yes. Every Cartier watch sold by ECI Jewelers includes the original Cartier box. Original papers are included when the watch is listed as a complete set.
Do you offer free insured shipping? Yes. ECI Jewelers offers free insured shipping on eligible online orders.
Can I finance a Cartier watch? Yes. Financing is available for qualified buyers.
Can I trade in my Cartier watch? Yes. ECI Jewelers buys and accepts trades on select Cartier watches. Evaluations consider the reference, material, condition, bracelet, box and papers, and current market demand.
Cartier Santos 100 Large 18K Rose Gold Fully Iced Out Black Roman Dial Rubber Strap 2008
Cartier Santos 100 Large 18K Yellow Gold White Roman Dial Brown Leather Strap Complete Set 2008
