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Rolex Submariner References

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic and influential watches ever created. Introduced in 1953 as the world’s first watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters, the Submariner became the benchmark for dive watches and set the standard for underwater exploration. Over seven decades, its design has remained remarkably consistent while evolving through technological improvements, material innovations, and refined aesthetics.

Known for its unidirectional bezel, excellent legibility, durable Oyster case, and unmatched reliability, the Submariner is celebrated by divers, collectors, and everyday wearers alike. Today, the Submariner stands as a symbol of adventure, precision, and timeless style — a true cornerstone of Rolex’s professional watch lineup.


Current Production

The latest generation of the Rolex Submariner was introduced in 2020, featuring a slightly larger 41 mm case, slimmer lugs for more balanced proportions, and upgraded movements across the collection.

Key Current Submariner References:

Submariner (No-Date)

  • 124060 — Oystersteel, black bezel, black dial

Submariner Date

  • 126610LN — Oystersteel, black bezel

  • 126610LV — Oystersteel, green bezel “Starbucks / Starbucks Kermit”

Rolesor & Gold Models

  • 126613LN — Yellow Rolesor, black bezel

  • 126613LB — Yellow Rolesor, blue bezel

  • 126618LN — Yellow gold, black bezel

  • 126618LB — Yellow gold, blue bezel

  • 126619LB — White gold, blue bezel

These references feature Cerachrom ceramic bezels, Chromalight lume, refined case architecture, and the next-generation Caliber 3230 or 3235 movement.


Discontinued

Discontinued Submariner references are among the most collectible watches in the world. These include classic aluminum-bezel models, early ceramic generations, and vintage icons.

Notable Discontinued References:

Ceramic (2010–2020)

  • 114060 — No-Date

  • 116610LN — Black

  • 116610LV — “Hulk” (green dial + green bezel)

  • 116613LB / LN — Two-tone

  • 116618LB / LN — Yellow gold

  • 116619LB — “Smurf” (white gold with blue dial)

Aluminum Bezel Submariners

  • 16610 — A highly collectible modern classic

  • 16610LV — “Kermit” 50th Anniversary

  • 14060 / 14060M — No-Date Submariner, beloved by purists

  • 16800 / 168000 — Transitional models

  • 5513 / 5512 / 1680 — Legendary vintage references

These discontinued models carry substantial collector value, especially in well-preserved or full-set conditions.


Rolex Submariner Specifications

The Submariner’s specifications are designed around professional diving requirements while maintaining refined aesthetics suitable for daily wear.


Materials

The Submariner is available in several high-performance materials:

Material Options:

  • Oystersteel (904L) — highly corrosion-resistant

  • Yellow Rolesor (steel + gold)

  • 18k yellow gold

  • 18k white gold

  • Cerachrom ceramic bezel inserts

  • Sapphire crystal

Cerachrom bezels provide exceptional resistance to fade, scratches, and UV exposure.


Movement

Modern Submariner models use two next-generation Rolex movements:

Caliber 3230

  • Used in Submariner No-Date (124060)

Caliber 3235

  • Used in Submariner Date models (126610, 126613, 126618, etc.)

Movement Highlights:

  • 70-hour power reserve

  • Chronergy escapement

  • Blue Parachrom hairspring

  • Paraflex shock absorbers

  • COSC-certified + Rolex Superlative Chronometer testing

  • Highly efficient automatic winding

These movements deliver exceptional accuracy, reliability, and resistance to magnetism.


Dial

The Submariner dial is designed for maximum underwater legibility.

Dial Features:

  • Chromalight luminescence with blue glow

  • Mercedes hands

  • Bold geometric hour markers

  • Black, green, or blue colorways

  • Clean and highly legible layout

  • Date or No-Date configuration

High-contrast lume ensures visibility in low-light and deep-water environments.


Watch Bands

The Submariner is equipped exclusively with the Oyster bracelet.

Oyster Bracelet Features:

  • Three-link construction

  • Oysterlock safety clasp

  • Glidelock micro-adjustment (20 mm total travel)

  • Solid end links

  • Exceptional durability for sports and diving

The Glidelock system allows for tool-free expansion, even over a wetsuit.


Sizes

Modern Submariners feature contemporary proportions optimized for comfort and presence.

Key Dimensions (current generation):

  • Case Diameter: 41 mm

  • Lug-to-Lug: approx. 48 mm

  • Thickness: approx. 12.5 mm

  • Lug Width: 21 mm

Previous generations ranged from 40 mm to slightly smaller proportions.


Water Resistance

As a professional dive watch, the Submariner provides:

  • 300 meters (1,000 ft) water resistance

  • Triplock screw-down crown

  • Thick sapphire crystal

  • Hermetically sealed Oyster case

These features make the Submariner suitable for recreational + professional diving.


Power Reserve

  • 70 hours with Caliber 3230/3235

  • Older generations range from 48–50 hours


Rolex Submariner Price

Submariner prices vary depending on model, materials, and rarity.

Retail Price (Approx.)

  • No-Date: $9,000–$10,000

  • Submariner Date: $10,500–$12,000

  • Rolesor: $15,000–$17,500

  • Full Gold: $39,000–$45,000+

  • White gold: $45,000–$50,000+

Pre-Owned Prices

  • Steel models: $10,000–$20,000+

  • Hulk (116610LV): $18,000–$30,000+

  • Kermit (16610LV): $15,000–$30,000+

  • Smurf: $35,000–$55,000+

  • Vintage references: $12,000–$100,000+ depending on rarity

The Submariner remains one of the strongest long-term value pieces in Rolex history.


Expert Opinion

“The Rolex Submariner is the ultimate dive watch. Its design has remained timeless for decades, yet every generation brings subtle improvements that push the standard higher. Whether vintage or modern, steel or gold, the Submariner offers unmatched versatility, durability, and collectability. It’s a cornerstone in any serious watch collection.”


Why Choose Us

At ECI Jewelers, we offer a curated selection of Submariners — from the newest full-set pieces to discontinued favorites and rare collector models. Every watch is thoroughly authenticated, pressure-tested, and inspected for accuracy and condition. We provide transparent pricing, expert guidance, and free insured shipping to ensure a premium buying experience from start to finish.


Sell Your Rolex Submariner

If you’re ready to sell or trade your Submariner, ECI Jewelers offers top-market cash or trade-in values. Our specialists evaluate condition, rarity, and demand to provide a fair and competitive offer. Enjoy a secure, fast, and professional selling experience backed by trusted expertise.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most popular luxury watch brands?

The most sought-after luxury watch brands include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and OMEGA, each known for exceptional craftsmanship and enduring prestige. Rolex continues to hold the strongest global recognition and demand, while Cartier, Tudor, Breitling, and Panerai also maintain loyal followings among collectors and enthusiasts.

At ECI Jewelers, we specialize in these leading brands—curated for authenticity, condition, and long-term value.

How can I tell if a luxury watch is authentic?


Authentic luxury watches display flawless finishing, smooth mechanical operation, consistent engraving, and proper weight. Counterfeits often fail in these areas.

The best way to ensure authenticity is to buy only from reputable dealers like ECI Jewelers, where every timepiece is carefully inspected by our in-house experts and sold with full transparency. Many of our watches come as complete sets including the original box, papers, and documentation verifying authenticity.

What’s the difference between new and pre-owned luxury watches?

New luxury watches are sold through authorized retailers with full factory warranties but often come with waitlists and premium pricing—especially for high-demand models like the Rolex Daytona or Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Pre-owned luxury watches, on the other hand, provide access to both current and discontinued models at more competitive prices. When purchased from trusted experts like ECI Jewelers, pre-owned watches offer verified authenticity, immediate availability, and potential appreciation in value over time—without compromising quality or prestige.

What should I look for when buying a luxury watch?

When investing in a fine timepiece, consider the following:


  • Authenticity: Always ensure the watch has been professionally verified.

  • Condition: Check for minimal wear, original parts, and recent servicing.

  • Complete Documentation: A watch with its original box and papers carries greater collector and resale value.

  • Lifestyle Fit: Choose a design that complements your daily use—such as a Rolex Submariner for versatility or a Cartier Tank for formal elegance.

  • Reputable Source: Buy from an established dealer like ECI Jewelers, where every watch is authenticated, serviced, and backed by industry expertise.
Can luxury watches be good investments?

Yes—certain luxury watches have historically shown strong value retention and appreciation, particularly limited-production models or discontinued references from brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.

While not every watch increases in price, timepieces with proven heritage, technical innovation, and market scarcity often perform well as tangible assets. At ECI Jewelers, we help collectors identify models with the highest investment potential while ensuring each purchase offers both emotional and financial value.

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