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Rolex 1908 References

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is one of the most significant modern additions to the Rolex catalog. Introduced in 2023, the 1908 revived the brand’s long-standing commitment to traditional dress watchmaking. Named after the year “Rolex” became a registered trademark, the 1908 blends historical inspiration with contemporary engineering, representing the most elegant, refined, and technically advanced dress watch Rolex has produced in decades.

Crafted exclusively in precious metals, offered with a leather strap, and powered by a brand-new movement visible through a transparent caseback, the Rolex 1908 stands apart as a refined alternative to Rolex’s more rugged professional watches. Slim, sophisticated, and timeless, the 1908 appeals to collectors who value understated luxury and classical watchmaking at the highest standard.

Current Production

Current production Rolex 1908 models reflect the brand’s dedication to precision, heritage, and craftsmanship. Each reference features a slim 39 mm case, an elegant domed and fluted bezel, and a minimalist dial with Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12. The small seconds complication adds a traditional touch, while the exhibition caseback reveals the advanced caliber inside — a first for modern Rolex dress watches.

The 1908 is available in 18k yellow gold or 18k white gold, paired with lacquered white or matte black dials. Each version comes fitted with a premium alligator leather strap and a dual-folding Crownclasp designed for comfort and security.

Standout Current Production Models:

Rolex 52508 — 18k yellow gold, white dial
Rolex 52509 — 18k white gold, white dial
Rolex 52508-0002 — 18k yellow gold, black dial
Rolex 52509-0002 — 18k white gold, black dial

These references deliver everything the modern dress watch collector seeks: refined proportions, beautifully executed finishing, and a high-performance in-house movement with exceptional chronometric precision.

Discontinued

Because the Rolex 1908 is a very new model introduced in 2023, no references have been officially discontinued yet. However, Rolex is known for updating dial configurations, case materials, and movement details over time.

Collectors can expect early versions of the 1908 — particularly the first-run white lacquer dials and black matte dials — to gain historical significance as the model evolves in the coming years. As with early Cellini references, early 1908 models may eventually be viewed as transitional pieces marking an important turning point in Rolex’s dress watch heritage.

Rolex 1908 Specifications

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 showcases the brand’s highest level of craftsmanship in a clean, elegant design that focuses on proportion, finishing, and movement innovation. Below are the full specifications that define the 1908 collection.

Materials

The Rolex 1908 is crafted exclusively from 18k yellow gold or 18k white gold, emphasizing its identity as a luxury dress timepiece. The case features a signature double bezel — domed on the upper portion and finely fluted on the lower — offering a subtle and sophisticated take on Rolex’s iconic fluted style.

Other material highlights include:

Sapphire crystal front and back, the latter showcasing the movement
Alligator leather strap with tone-matched stitching
Dual-folding Crownclasp for secure closure
Lacquered or matte-finish dials with applied gold markers

This combination of precious metals, elegant dial design, and refined case finishing makes the 1908 distinct from Rolex’s sportier collections.

Movement

Inside the Rolex 1908 is the Caliber 7140, a state-of-the-art self-winding mechanical movement built specifically for the Perpetual collection. This movement represents some of Rolex’s most advanced engineering to date, offering a level of precision and finishing not typically visible in Rolex watches.

Movement Highlights:

Caliber 7140 — new-generation automatic movement
Skeletonized and beautifully finished bridges, visible through sapphire caseback
Small seconds complication at 6 o’clock
Syloxi silicon hairspring for enhanced anti-magnetism and stability
Chronergy escapement for high efficiency
70-hour power reserve
COSC-certified + Rolex’s own Superlative Chronometer testing

The Caliber 7140 represents Rolex’s pursuit of technical excellence within the traditionally elegant dress watch category.

Dial

The dial of the Rolex 1908 is a minimalist masterwork, offering exceptional legibility and a refined vintage-inspired aesthetic.

Dial Features:

Available in white lacquer or matte black
Gold applied markers and Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12
Small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock
Railroad-style minute track for a classic touch
Subtle “Superlative Chronometer” text
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands

The design draws inspiration from early Rolex dress watches while maintaining a modern execution.

Watch Bands

The 1908 comes paired with a high-quality alligator leather strap, tailored to match the case and dial combinations.

Strap Characteristics:

Hand-selected alligator leather
Tone-coordinated stitching
Fitted with a twin-folding Crownclasp in matching gold
Designed for comfort and formal wear

This strap emphasizes the 1908’s classic and refined profile, setting it apart from Rolex’s metal-bracelet offerings.

Sizes

The Rolex 1908 was designed with perfect dress-watch proportions.

Key Dimensions:

Case Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: Approx. 9 mm
Lug-to-Lug: 48 mm (approx., depending on strap curvature)
Lug Width: 20 mm

The slim profile allows the 1908 to slide easily under a cuff, making it ideal for formal or business settings.

Water Resistance

The Rolex 1908 offers 50 meters (165 feet) of water resistance.
This is achieved through:

A twin-lock screw-down crown
A well-sealed sapphire caseback
Precision case construction designed for daily wear

While not intended for swimming or diving, the 1908 provides ample protection for everyday use.

Power Reserve

The Caliber 7140 inside the 1908 delivers an impressive 70-hour power reserve, benefiting from:

Chronergy escapement
High-efficiency automatic winding
Advanced mainspring barrel architecture

This ensures reliable performance even after days off the wrist.

Rolex 1908 Price

Being a precious-metal dress watch powered by Rolex’s latest movement innovation, the Rolex 1908 commands a premium within the brand’s catalog.

Retail Pricing (Approx.)

Starts around $22,000–$24,000 depending on gold type and dial

Pre-Owned Prices

Current pre-owned market values range from:

$18,000–$28,000
depending on:
- Reference
- Condition
- Documentation
- Strap wear
- Market demand

Because the 1908 is still relatively new, pricing remains stable and may appreciate as the model matures.

Expert Opinion

“Rolex’s introduction of the Perpetual 1908 marks one of the most important shifts in the brand’s modern history — a sincere return to classic watchmaking tradition with the movement finishing, proportions, and elegance collectors have long hoped to see from Rolex. The 1908 is perhaps the purest expression of Rolex refinement, offering a true dress watch built for the next generation.”

Why Choose Us

At ECI Jewelers, we curate only the finest examples of modern and pre-owned Rolex watches, including the 1908. Every piece is authenticated, inspected, and verified for condition, ensuring that collectors receive a watch worthy of investment. Our deep expertise in luxury timepieces, transparent service, and trusted reputation make us a leading destination for those seeking exceptional Rolex models.

Whether you're purchasing your first dress Rolex or adding to a well-established collection, we provide guidance, secure fast shipping, and the peace of mind that comes from working with knowledgeable professionals.

Sell Your Rolex 1908

If you’re considering selling your Rolex 1908, ECI Jewelers offers a simple, secure, and transparent process. Our specialists evaluate each watch with care, ensuring you receive a competitive and fair market offer. Whether you are upgrading, trading, or adjusting your collection, we make the process effortless from start to finish.

Contact us today to begin your evaluation and discover why collectors nationwide trust ECI Jewelers when selling their luxury timepieces.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most popular luxury watch brands?

The most sought-after luxury watch brands include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and OMEGA, each known for exceptional craftsmanship and enduring prestige. Rolex continues to hold the strongest global recognition and demand, while Cartier, Tudor, Breitling, and Panerai also maintain loyal followings among collectors and enthusiasts.

At ECI Jewelers, we specialize in these leading brands—curated for authenticity, condition, and long-term value.

How can I tell if a luxury watch is authentic?

Authentic luxury watches display flawless finishing, smooth mechanical operation, consistent engraving, and proper weight. Counterfeits often fail in these areas.

The best way to ensure authenticity is to buy only from reputable dealers like ECI Jewelers, where every timepiece is carefully inspected by our in-house experts and sold with full transparency. Many of our watches come as complete sets including the original box, papers, and documentation verifying authenticity.

What’s the difference between new and pre-owned luxury watches?

New luxury watches are sold through authorized retailers with full factory warranties but often come with waitlists and premium pricing—especially for high-demand models like the Rolex Daytona or Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Pre-owned luxury watches, on the other hand, provide access to both current and discontinued models at more competitive prices. When purchased from trusted experts like ECI Jewelers, pre-owned watches offer verified authenticity, immediate availability, and potential appreciation in value over time—without compromising quality or prestige.

What should I look for when buying a luxury watch?

When investing in a fine timepiece, consider the following:

Authenticity: Always ensure the watch has been professionally verified.
Condition: Check for minimal wear, original parts, and recent servicing.
Complete Documentation: A watch with its original box and papers carries greater collector and resale value.
Lifestyle Fit: Choose a design that complements your daily use—such as a Rolex Submariner for versatility or a Cartier Tank for formal elegance.
Reputable Source: Buy from an established dealer like ECI Jewelers, where every watch is authenticated, serviced, and backed by industry expertise.

Can luxury watches be good investments?

Yes—certain luxury watches have historically shown strong value retention and appreciation, particularly limited-production models or discontinued references from brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.

While not every watch increases in price, timepieces with proven heritage, technical innovation, and market scarcity often perform well as tangible assets. At ECI Jewelers, we help collectors identify models with the highest investment potential while ensuring each purchase offers both emotional and financial value.