Rolex Lady-Datejust 26
The Rolex Lady-Datejust 26 is one of the most recognizable women's luxury watches ever made — elegant, compact, and instantly identifiable by its Cyclops date window and fluted bezel. Introduced in 1957 as the women's counterpart to the Datejust, it carried every signature Rolex design element — Oyster case, automatic movement, date display, Cyclops lens — scaled into a smaller, more delicate 26mm profile.
Rolex discontinued the 26mm size in favor of larger modern cases (28mm and up), which has made this reference increasingly sought after in the pre-owned and collector market. Buyers are drawn to its classic proportions, the sheer range of dial and metal configurations produced over its run, and its everyday wearability.
Why Collectors Still Seek Out the 26mm Size
Three things drive ongoing demand for this reference:
- Discontinued status. Since Rolex no longer produces the 26mm case, supply is fixed — every example on the market today was made before the size was retired.
- Configuration variety. Few Rolex references were produced in as many combinations: stainless steel, two-tone Rolesor, full yellow or white gold, with dials ranging from champagne and mother-of-pearl to diamond-set and Roman numeral.
- Wearability. The smaller case suits smaller wrists and layers easily with other jewelry, which keeps it in steady demand even as trends shift toward larger watches.
Popular References
Each reference number below reflects a different generation, metal combination, or bezel style — the details that most affect both look and price.
69173 and 69174 are the earlier-generation references, built on the calibre 2135 movement. The 69173 is two-tone Yellow Rolesor (steel and 18K yellow gold); the 69174 is White Rolesor (steel with an 18K white gold fluted bezel), giving it a cleaner, more understated finish.
79173 and 79174 are the next generation, moving to the calibre 2235 movement. They follow the same steel-and-yellow-gold (79173) versus steel-and-white-gold (79174) split, with a slightly more refined case and bracelet feel than their 69XXX predecessors.
179173 and 179174 represent the final production generation before the 26mm size was retired — the same Yellow Rolesor / White Rolesor distinction, but with the most modern build quality of the range and the broadest dial variety, including anniversary and mother-of-pearl options.
179178 is a full 18K yellow gold model, often paired with a President bracelet for a more formal, jewelry-forward look. 179179 is its white gold counterpart, offering the same precious-metal presence in a cooler tone.
Specifications
| Case size | 26mm |
| Case | Rolex Oyster case |
| Crystal | Sapphire (later references); acrylic on some vintage models |
| Date display | Cyclops-magnified date window |
| Water resistance | Most Oyster-case models were originally rated to 100m / 330ft; resistance on any pre-owned piece depends on age, gaskets, and service history |
| Bracelets | Jubilee, Oyster, select President configurations |
| Bezels | Smooth, fluted, or factory diamond-set |
| Movement | Automatic — calibre 2135 (earlier references) or calibre 2235 (later references) |
Metal, Dial, and Bracelet Combinations
Metals range from stainless steel up through two-tone Rolesor (steel paired with 18K yellow or white gold) to solid 18K yellow, white, or Everose gold, with some models featuring factory-set diamond bezels or dials.
Dials span champagne, silver, white, black, blue, ivory, and mother-of-pearl, along with Roman numeral, stick index, diamond-marker, and specialty finishes like anniversary or floral patterns. A champagne dial on a two-tone case reads as the traditional, expected look; mother-of-pearl with diamond markers leans more jewelry-inspired; a silver or white dial with Roman numerals feels the cleanest and most versatile.
Bracelets shape the watch's overall character. The five-piece Jubilee is the classic pairing for fluted-bezel models and offers the most flexibility on the wrist. The three-piece Oyster bracelet gives a sportier, more durable feel. The President bracelet appears on select precious-metal models and reads as the most formal, jewelry-like option of the three.
Is It a Good Daily Watch?
Yes — its light weight and compact size make it easy to wear with business attire, casual outfits, or stacked alongside other jewelry. Because most examples on the market today are pre-owned, buying from a jeweler that authenticates and inspects each piece before sale matters more than it would with a new watch.
What Drives Value
Reference number, metal, dial style, diamond details, bracelet condition, production year, box and papers, service history, and overall originality all factor into what a given example is worth. As with any pre-owned mechanical watch, no purchase is a guaranteed investment — but the fixed, discontinued supply of the 26mm case has kept demand for well-preserved examples steady.
Shop the Collection at ECI Jewelers
Our current inventory spans stainless steel, two-tone, yellow gold, white gold, diamond-dial, and mother-of-pearl configurations across Jubilee, Oyster, and President bracelets, depending on availability. Every watch we sell is authenticated and inspected before listing, ships fully insured, and includes the original Rolex box — complete sets include the original papers as well.
Browse the collection online, or visit our showroom in New York's Diamond District to view pieces in person.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Rolex Lady-Datejust 26 discontinued? Yes. Rolex no longer produces the 26mm case, having moved women's Datejust production to larger modern sizes.
When was the Lady-Datejust introduced? Rolex introduced it in 1957 as the women's version of the Datejust, which itself debuted in 1945.
What movement does it use? Earlier references (69173, 69174) use the calibre 2135; later references (79173, 79174, 179173, 179174) use the calibre 2235.
What's the difference between the 69173 and 79173? Both are two-tone Yellow Rolesor references. The 79173 is the later generation, built on the calibre 2235; the 69173 is earlier, built on the calibre 2135.
What's the difference between the 179173 and 179174? The 179173 is two-tone Yellow Rolesor (steel and 18K yellow gold); the 179174 is White Rolesor (steel with an 18K white gold bezel).
Is it water resistant? Most later Oyster-case models were originally rated to 100m / 330ft. On a pre-owned or vintage piece, actual water resistance depends on age, gasket condition, and service history — we recommend having any watch pressure-tested before swimming or diving.
Does it come with the original box? Yes, every Rolex we sell includes the original box. Watches listed as complete sets also include the original papers.
Do you offer financing or insured shipping? Yes to both — financing is available for qualified buyers at checkout, and all eligible online orders ship fully insured.
Can I sell or trade mine? Yes. Contact our team for a market-based evaluation on your Lady-Datejust 26 or any other Rolex.
